21st Century Sizzlers: Hot Wheels K.I.T. Racing Kinetic Interactive Technology. Too Much Too Soon?

July 22, 2020
#398

Gentle reader,

There have been countless toys created over the millennia once humans figured out how to make things. Every year since the dawn of the 20th Century, the number, variety, complexity and  availability of these toys has increased exponentially.

Some of the most joyous days in our family was the arrival of the Sears, Wards and JCPenny Christmas catalogs. Yes, folks, LONG before the Internet, people ordered things they could not get locally via catalogs through the mail. Sears, Roebuck and Company was one of the first to capitalize on this idea. They produced quarterly catalogs and the best one as far as kids are concerned were their annual holiday catalogs.

The advent of "devices" and prior to that computer, then console video games changed how many kids played, to the detriment of children's imagination and physical and possibly mental health.

Imagination is one thing that humans have the rest of the animal kingdom lacks. More change has been wrought on planet earth since the Industrial Revolution. Most of it good, some destructive. But I am digressing.

"Hot Wheels" has become a generic term for small metal cars, but of course there are many companies that have and do produce them. Some companies that did are lost to history.
Hot Wheels K.I.T. Racing Kinetic Interactive Technology Test Trax.

I only recently learned that Hot Wheels also made slot car tracks. We were fortunate that our parents encouraged out interest in things. I was always playing with cars, so in the 1960's when they gave us an Aurora Model Motoring HO slot car set my brother and I were thrilled!
A company called Far Out Toys created the racing set above, well, this is the second generation in cooperation with NASCAR. The first used 1950's cars and was simply called Crash Racers. There really is Figure-8 racing. The idea is to avoid each other, but the crowds hope for crashes. These sets are a lot of fun and are the basis for countless people trying to create in their home the type of fun downhill racing perfected by 3DBotMaker on YouTube. 3Dbotmaker - YouTube

We are one of them, I showed their videos to my wife and she got super excited. She is not your ordinary female, on many levels. One of the countless reasons after ALL these years, I still adore her.


We have bought two Crash Racer sets, so far. We combined the track pieces (less the intersection) into different shapes and now into the beginning of our downhill course. Hot Wheels track connects to Crash Racers with standard HW track connectors.

She saw a friend of hers was selling a "Hot Wheels K.I.T. Racing Kinetic Interactive Technology" set (shown above Crash Racers). It is from 2002 and it intrigued her, so she bought it, thinking it might be useful. 

There is almost NO information out on the Internet that I could find about these Hot Wheels K.I.T. Racing Kinetic Interactive Technology cars and their TRAX system. I've looked. Why is that?

Having decades of experience working with my hands in a multitude of ways, including on HO slot cars and railroad cars, I was very interested in seeing how these work.
After seeing that the car in the set requires assembly, I sought out other ones on eBay. I bought these three for less than twenty bucks.

I'm going to unbox one, show you what is there, assemble it and then show you the wide variety of cars, parts and functionality they created in these tiny electrical marvels. 
To get the cover off, pull off the top and bottom pieces, then slide out the inner packaging.
Slit the tape that holds the top clear plastic to the bottom. Above are all the contents.
This is the bare chassis, dominated by a Nickel-Cadmium rechargeable battery. See how they decorated the chassis to resemble electrical components?
Turning it over reveals that TOMY actually created these cars.
Here is everything pulled from the plastic.
Rear axle has a blue driven gear on it. Front axle is similar to many 1:64th scale diecast cars use. Blue device above the gears is "suspension" for the front axle. Double blue gear is driven by the white gear which goes on the motor and transfers the energy to the driven gear which rotates the rear axle, wheels and tires. The TINY motor I placed inside one of the tires, since it kept rolling away. The metal device by the other tire secures the motor in the chassis and also acts as a heat sink according to the directions. They dissipate heat.
All of the bodies and parts are various types of plastic. Only the axles, electrical conductors and motor and battery parts are metal.

Rather than a series of photos, here is a scan of the directions so that you can see each step. 
Part 8 is vital. First, the cars have a short wheelbase which means they tend to wander. The horizontal rollers help keep it on the track.
I did not bother to "Test" my vehicle's performance as suggested. I assembled a simple oval with what Hot Wheels track we had and tried it out. The cars do not like banked turns.
The "Kinetic Interactive Technology" portion of these cars are what I believe were their downfall. That and fragile plastic pars. As I found out.

Scans above and below show all the MANY parts that can be interchanged on the cars to change their performance in certain circumstances. 
The colors above and below show the types of car kits one could purchase and the parts shown above which could also be bought to swap on your cars. Each color of car promises different types of performance.
Being someone who all his life (I'm 63) loved to create, build, modify, restore, repair and so much more. I think Kinetic Interactive Technology is fantastic! 
Note the color and type of wheels above. The lower chassis was now complete.

I turned it over and installed the tiny motor/drive gear assembly. I carefully placed the metal (heat sink) device over the shaft the transfer gears ride on, pressed it down over the motor and into the hole it is supposed to "Click" into (see 7C). The tab sticking out on the right side above slides into a slot on the rear of the bodies. That is what broke off.

I knew from experience that super-gluing it back on would not be strong enough to retain that metal piece which is under tension. So, I tried clamping the metal piece down and using another type of glue to hold it in place. I later used super-glue to reattach the tab.

That worked, and once the glue dried, I put two AA batteries in the charger and charged up the Ni-Cad in the car. It would not run! I rotated the rear axle, everything turned without binding. So, I tapped the car on the table. It ran for a few seconds then stopped. Crap. Another tap, short run, then nothing. Either the Ni-Cad battery is no good, or their is a loose connection.

OK, I opened the Test Trax box and got out it's car parts. It went together smoothly. I charged it up and it ran fine. However, as stated above, it wandered (on the Crash Racers track) around. 

So, I came back up here and tried to install part #8. In doing so the FRONT part of the car broke which holds the front axle on!

I carefully super-glued those pieces back on, reinstalled the axle and carefully and slowly installed part #8. To prevent it coming off (which it did when I tried it on track!) I glued it in place.  
Above is a Crash Racers chassis. I placed it on an unopened box to show you the size difference of the motors. The tiny motor in the package is lined up with motor in the chassis.

The other difference, other than size and structurally much more robust chassis made of softer plastic, is that the Crash Racers use a CAPACITOR rather than a battery to store the electricity from their charger The capacitor is the blue cylinder.

The battery in your petroleum (gas or diesel) powered car is used to start the engine and power things like the radio and other things one might want to use when the engine is off.

When your car's engine is running, the alternator (driven by the engine via a serpentine belt) charges the battery and provides ALL the electricity to power all electrical component used while driving. It is not a good idea, but once your engine is running, one can remove the battery altogether. The engine and all components (except the alternator!) will work fine.

There are people who realized this and replaced their car's battery with capacitors. Here is a link to one video where it was done:
Replacing My Car Battery with Capacitors! 12V BoostPack Update - YouTube   
Okay, so here is the car chassis from the Test Trax. I placed it atop the Crash Racer for comparison. Note the car has rubber tires rear and front. (See "Customizing" chart above for the differences.)

Note that although Crash Racer cars are larger than Hot Wheels, they fit fine on and do run on Hot Wheels track. The trouble is they are WAY too fast for Hot Wheels track!  
Of the four Crash Racer cars we have, this one will usually pass through the transition from CR track onto the HW track we use with a start gate at the beginning of our test downhill course. 
"Transition" is the place where orange meets grey.
So they definitely will be able to do hill climb races on the same course the diecast cars will be racing down.


Another shot of the naked Crash Racers chassis for size comparison.

So how did the working K.I.T. car do? I put together a simple oval track using two 180 degree curves, seen below. Then I switched to banked curves on both ends and the car did well.
The 30 second charge is good for about three minutes of running time. To truly race them one would need lots of two-lane curves which Hot Wheels has not made in a long time. 

The speed is much slower than Crash Racers, but it is quick. Sometimes it does drive off the side of the straight tracks. The Test Trax are all made with higher walls.

[UPDATE: With a full 30 second charge, the car WILL climb all the way to the top where the black start gate is. 

On the grey track, sometimes they will do "a 180" and reverse their direction.

And finally, they do really well on carpet! Boy do the dogs take off after it!]

That last statement is one of the many problems with K.I.T. cars and Test Trax. They do not connect to standard Hot Wheels orange track and as mentioned, the ONE review I was able to find pointed out that the Ni-Cad batteries tend to leak and the plastic pieces which connect the Test Trax together are, wait for it.....fragile.

So now we decide whether to build the other two cars and try and race them on the Crash Racers track. Stay tuned.
I decided to get out a couple of HO slot cars out to compare to the K.I.T. car. 

Left is a TYCO Ferrari F40 body and their type of chassis. If you have seen larger scale slot cars, this smaller one mimics the larger car's design. Nowadays, the large scale slot cars have gone digital and can change lanes and even have multiple cars running on the same track! See:
24 Hour slot car Le Mans 2018 - YouTube

Middle is an Aurora AFX (Aurora Factory Experimental) Porsche 911 body and chassis. Aurora, one of the earliest HO slot car companies, chose to make their chassis with a horizontally placed motor which uses an intermediary gear (the call it an "idler" gear) between the motor and a two-level gear (like the K.I.T. car's) to transfer the power to a ring gear on the rear axle.
Aurora's chassis and drivetrain (the series of gears) are far more complicated than TYCO and other brands use. The AFX chassis is an upgrade to the original chassis, show below.
This photo I just found on the Internet someone used for eBay. It shows the old chassis from three angles. Very complicated. They could overheat which is why the AFX chassis is more airy and no longer uses two screws (see holes and slot in the chassis?) to attach the smaller and more narrow bodies.
This is a 1963 Corvette car I used to have. Note how close the body is to the chassis. Not much room to dissipate heat in this old design. But people still race them and we still have a number of them.
One last thing because it came up in the 3DBotMaker Facebook page. HO trains are 1:87th scale. Hot Wheels and their ilk are nominally 1:64th scale as are HO slot cars. The newer AFX, TYCO and such are like many HW cars, much larger than 1:64th. The original HO cars shown above are closer to scale.

I hope that you enjoyed reading this tale and perhaps learned a few things along the way. Please take a moment to click the FOLLOW button (found on the Assembly sheet scan) and leave a comment below or on Facebook.

Scott & Nancy
July 22, 2020
#398

Retail Prices Specifications and More On Classic And Modern Dynaco Stereo Equipment

July 19, 2020
#397
Gentle reader,
We are simplifying our lives as we get older. One way we are doing that is by getting rid of collections that no longer interest us. Also books and lots of other things that have just sat there for YEARS are going.
I began my interest in obtaining the best sounding music which I could afford back in 1975 or '76. I have bought literally hundreds of components and speaker pairs over those many years.
For example, these components are all LONG gone. The PAT-5 preamplifier was the first piece of Dynaco gear I ever had. I built it as a kit in 1976.
One thing I have done for the blog was to go through all my articles I have written and created lists of links to those articles, based upon categories. I just entered: Dynaco into the blogger.com starting page of mine and found, including this one, that I have written 100 articles which have that name within them! It surprised me too.
Below are links to the INDEXES for every article about stereos, speakers and more. 
 

 
 
Long ago, I came across a series of books called: ORION BLUE BOOK. They are created for all kinds of business uses. I wanted one specifically about audio equipment, but they are very expensive, even used. 
I lucked out, as someone was selling a lot of six or seven ORION books, one of which was AUDIO from 2002.
I kept it and sold the rest singly for much more than I paid for the box full of books. By the way, I just today listed my AUDIO book on eBay. This link will take you to it:  rfcollectin on eBay
It is literally a glimpse into my audio past.
I thought that I should scan the pages related to Dynaco products since most of what I have in the listening room is 1990's Dynaco equipment.
Then it occurred to me that you too might like to see the scans I made. I cropped out all the price information other than retail since the book is 18 years old and eBay has changed EVERYTHING in the world of buying and selling.

Columns are: Type of component, year(s) made, brand, WPC, model name/number and retail price.

I apologize for the column of dates that run through each photo, that is the way Blogger works. I chose to show them original size so that you can see and use the information.

However, if you click on any photo, it will open in a window OVER this page. And you can see the images. Sadly, they are smaller than they appear here.



Yes, I wrote in the book. I highlighted every component I have owned. On pages where things I bought were not listed, I handwrote the model name/number.
In the case of all the handwritten: ( and ), those are items that were from the Panor-era of Dynaco, and/or were continued to be made by them.
As these ORION BLUE BOOKs cannot possibly contain every piece of equipment from every manufacturer, they also may contain information for units that may not have made it out to the public.

In the past, my writing about the latter-day-Dynaco, I was using this book as a guide, I searched long and hard to find photos of all of those listed. Many, I did not find a single photo.
I DID find things, such as this image of the original specs for the new A-10 speaker cabinets.
You may also recognize this photo. It is all the information the new Dynaco sent to me by mail when I wrote for product brochures. I have mentally kicked myself for not scanning every piece of paper before I put them on eBay. Sigh.
This is a photo of a magazine ad for the 1990's Dynaco tube equipment. 
This is the listening room system. Dynaco ST-200 power amplifier, QD-2 passive surround system and PAT-6 preamplifier-tuner. 

I have been very happy with my 1990's Dynaco. Delighted, in fact. The only drawback to the PAT-6 is that it does not have as many inputs as I need. Thus the SONY switch atop it. But that solves the problem just fine.  

A reader, (thanks, John!) showed me this site which lists LOTS of Dynaco equipment and speakers (some of which I have written about previously) of which I have never seen nor heard of: Dynaco | Gearogs Database  It is 176 items in total. Whew!

So, I hope you have found this information useful. Feel free to share the link to the article with any other Dynaco friends you may have. 

Please take a moment to click FOLLOW which can be found in the photo of the tube equipment. That way you will be notified of future articles. You may also leave a comment below or on Facebook.

Thanks!

Scott
July 19, 2020
#397  

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