How to make a 1966 FORD GT40 handle like a dream: FORZA 4 XBox 360

Gentle reader,

If you follow my blog, you may remember my detailing the 100 per cent completion of Forza 4 on XBox 360 which I covered in 15 posts, starting here:

The Robb Collections: XBox 360 FORZA 4 Completed! Check out my 252 digital race cars! Introdution.  

Since then, I reported on finding a black XBox 360 at a thrift store with a much larger hard drive than mine and reformatting that drive for my use as well as using the black case. As a result, I wiped my games and such from the old hard drive and started from scratch with the new one.

I have four or five other racing simulations and yet keep coming back to Forza 4. Do I want an XBox 1 and Forza 6. Yes, but since the HDMI input on this TV does not work and I HAVE to use a steering wheel and pedals, that takes the cost beyond the console and F-6 to an unjustifiable total.

My "very best good friend"* Steve, that I work with, also has an XBox 360 & F-4. I gave him a steering wheel and pedals. Once he got used to them, he agreed it's much more fun. Anyway, all he does is race. I've told him about all the fun he's missing out on as F-4 has SO many other things to do to add to the enjoyment.

So, this post is dedicated to and for my friend, Steve. A step-by-step primer on simple modifications to greatly improve the 1966 Ford GT40, a car that to my experienced hands was very much a handful to try and race.

I will not go into the history of the 24 Hours of Le Mans or the fight Henry Ford II took to Ferrari to beat them at their own game. Plenty of books and websites about that.

The Ford GT that is in Forza 4 is the Mark IIa which had the big-block Ford 427 race engine originally used for NASCAR racing. There are multiple differences to the rear portion of the body and entire car too over the original Mark I cars. It had a four-speed transmission geared for top speed, not off-the-line acceleration. Now, for some reason the designers of F-4 rate this real race car as an A Class as do they it's competitor at the time, the Ferrari 330 P4. WHY?

This is the screen where one can purchase the aforementioned car:

Yes, that is one and a half million credits! Most desirable cars and especially race cars cost many millions of credits. Note that it is rated: A562. Below are three screen shots of the car in one of the many color combinations available at purchase.

They are very good at reflections in this simulation.

Note the big, un-muffled exhaust tubes sticking out of the back. Strangely, even though it has the same engine as the Shelby Cobra 427 and Daytona racer, it sounds much different.

Now, I am going to take you, step-by-step through the simple modifications that I used to tame the beast that the MK II was.

The FIRST thing I do with EVERY car I buy, except late-model real race cars, is find and buy lighter weight wheels. The reason for this is to reduce what is called "un-sprung weight". That is any parts of the vehicle that the springs in the suspension do not support: In the case of F-4 that means tires and wheels. I always find the lightest ones and choose style second.

Since the Halibrand wheels the GT 40 used are made of magnesium, one would think they were pretty light. At the time, they were. Wheel technology has come a long way since then.

From the home page, choose: UPGRADE. Then choose: UPGRADE SHOP.

Then choose: TIRES AND RIMS.

Then choose: RIM STYLE.

Then choose, in this case: KONIG.

As you can see below, I chose DAYLITE rims. They are WAY lighter than the mag wheels.

The next step is to up-size the wheels and tires. The GT 40 had 15 inch rims originally. So, choose: REAR RIM SIZE.

I went with 18, or was it 19 inch diameter size. Anyway, it's the middle choice.

Then choose: FRONT RIM SIZE.

Again, I chose 18 inch diameter size for the front.

Next,  not illustrated, I widened the wheels on each end to: 270/45R18 on the front and a whopping 360/45R18 at the rear! ALSO not shown, I chose racing tires, the second-to-the-right set under TIRES. The furthest right ones are drag slicks and not for cornering.

Use the red "B" button to back out of the tires and rims then choose: DRIVETRAIN.

The next few modifications are to the drivetrain. That is the transmission and rear axle, which in these mid-engine racers is one unit called a transaxle. Front-wheel-drive cars also use transaxles. If you have an Audi larger than an A3 or a Subaru, your transaxle is in the same format as these mid-engine transaxles. But, I digress. Below is DRIVETRAIN.

Next, choose: CLUTCH.

Then choose: RACE CLUTCH.

"B" back and choose: TRANSMISSION:

Then choose: RACE TRANSMISSION: 

That gives you six forward speeds and much quicker acceleration. "B" back and choose: DIFFERENTIAL.

Then choose: RACE DIFFERENTIAL.

Then "B" back out all the way to the main UPGRADE page and choose: QUICK UPGRADE:

Your car is already up to "S" Class, but by clicking "S700" you are at the top level.

Now, I will show you, again, step-by-step, how to get your car(s) to look really cool and like real racers in what the racing wold calls "livery".

I have dabbled in painting my cars, but there are F-4 users that are true artists and some that can accurately reproduce actual race liveries for our enjoyment. Many don't even charge credits for you to have their work. But most do, some way too much. Those I do not bother with, I don't like greed. 

So, having used the "B" button to get back to the main page, from the menu choose: PAINT. You will see this menu:

Drop down to BUY DESIGNS. You can clearly see what I chose, more on that later.

The console will go on line and connect with the DESIGN page for every livery scheme that other F-4 users have created and are offering to you. As you can see, there are over 2000 to choose from. I went through ALL 2,129 of them and chose 15 that represented the three cars that finished 1,2,3 in 1966 breaking Ferrari's hold on Le Mans victories. 

What I wanted was the gold paint of number 3 that came in 3rd. I like metallic colors like gold and bronze anyway. There were several to choose from and I tried them all finally settling on the one below:

So, having used the "B" button after buying a design, under PAINT, go up to "MY DESIGNS". "A" button will open the page below and in my case, all 15 designs were waiting for me. 

Choose the one you bought and follow the prompts to apply the new paint scheme to your car. 

The amazing thing is some of these people use many multiple layers in their designs and they spend an inordinate amount of time getting it right. So, I applaud these talented "painters" in their endeavors to make Forza 4 a more beautiful and interesting and many times authentic environment.

Depending upon the way you view your racer as you race, (I usually choose in-car as that is how one drives and sees their car in the real world) you may only see a glimpse of the hood or tops of front fenders. But if you watch the replay there it is in all it's decorated glory!

I hoped this has helped open your eyes to the multitude of other opportunities the designers of Forza 4 and it's previous and later iterations have to offer the digital racer!

Enjoy, and thanks once again for looking!

Scott

*I quoted Forrest Gump as he described Bubba.