SONY verses ADCOM Preamplifier. The saga continues....

Gentle reader,
Yesterday was busy. With the arrival of Fall, that means dealing with the uncountable number of leaves in the yard. It's early enough to just mow them up. For now. 
As I paused in the back yard to empty the catcher, and shut off the motor (we have an electric mower), I heard, "Hello! You have a package!" It was the FedEx man with a huge box. The SONY preamplifier I wrote about yesterday had arrived! It is a SONY TA-E1000ESD.
Above and below is a comparison with the Adcom on top. Note the added on power cord on the Adcom. I replaced it with Belden 19364 audiophile power cable. It is praised for improving the sound. Is it so much smoke and snake oil? That debate will always rage on.
Note that there is only one coaxial digital input and essentially only one optical digital input. 
Now, this SONY TA-E1000ESD retailed for $1,400 when it came out in 1989, that's almost $2,700 today. It was cutting edge then in the early days of digital sound. I think it predates DVDs and certainly, CDs were only out for a few years and LPs still ruled music reproduction.
I downloaded the owner's manual from SONY: Sony eSupport - TAE1000ESD - Select Your Model 
and printed out the pages (of 47) I thought would help me understand the intricacies of this preamplifier. They are less than specific and perhaps were made for ones more knowledgeable than I about such digital things as parametric equalizers and slopes.
Consumer reviews: Sony TA-E1000ESD A/V Preamplifier reviews - Audioreview.com praise the unit but stress that analog inputs are converted to digital (DAC) for processing and reconverted to analog (DAC) for passing on to the five or six power amplifier's channels.

As this was probably made for the wealthy film lover to have the best surround sound experience in their home theater and not primarily for stereo music reproduction, I may have erred in buying it. This is not a problem as I can turn around and put it back on ebay. And I still have the Adcom.

I have plenty of toslink (digital fiber optic) cables but only one half-meter coaxial digital cable, shown below. So, I ordered three more of those in one meter length. Yes, I should have looked at the manual and/or these pictures before ordering three, but the other two can be used with this beauty's ancestor in the living room. The two I bought for that, while they work are cheap....

Since I like to show, and it seems you like to see, what I do with all my stuff (i.e., collections), below are more pictures of the transformation:
Above, is the newly installed and wired SONY. I had to use an AR upgraded power cord (the Pangea is too short) for the OPPO which now sits atop the TDK CD recorder. The Liberty Cable digitial coax cable is shown below as well as a digital link between the two for recording purposes.

Above is the newly wired SONY. And below, the whole kit in situ, which is Latin for "in place". Ready for music to pour forth.


Below is the wider view including the three sets of speakers that I regularly switch between trying to determine which sounds the best. I do not have "Golden Ears" like audio reviewers, which makes it hard to choose. So, why not keep them all?
Like many, I have favorite recordings that I use to test new components. Frankly, as far as LP reproduction is concerned, this SONY is lacking. It may be that I do not have something adjusted right, digitally, but the bass is distorted and I have to turn the volume up to 12 o'clock to only begin to make it loud enough. 

So, today, I will open the Adcom back up and check whether the return side of the RCA inputs and outputs are grounded to the chassis and whether that can solve the humming issue. 

In the mean time, there is this certain Kenwood I have my eye on...............

Thanks for looking,

Scott

Adcom GFP-565 Pre-amplifier has developed a hum AND no more Six-Channel Surround Sound

Gentle reader,

As you no doubt have figured out by your previous visits to my humble blog, I have a thing about listening to music. Well. In other works as realistic as my lowly budget will allow.

Some years ago, to my utter delight, my weekly (Wednesday, 25% off) trip to the local Salvation Army store paid off, big time. I found a set of three Adcom components, Pre-Amplifier, Power Amplifier and AC power conditioner. They can be seen in this very early page:

Years later, I noticed the left channel stopped working, and found the woofer's voice coil (the part of the speaker behind the center cap that the music signal flows through that makes it vibrate and produce sound) had overheated and jammed the cone. 
Research indicated that Adcom power amps are prone to capacitor failure. I looked and could not see evidence of that, found the left channel fuse blown [fuses blow (open the circuit) for a reason] so just replacing it and hoping for the best is well, at the least, naive. So, I sold it on ebay for what I paid for all three and hopefully, the new owner was able to fix it.

So, anyway, the stereo system developed a loud HMMMM when the volume was at zero, it sounded like the 60 Hertz sound that AC house current produces. Much anguishing and trouble shooting revealed (at last) that there is a bad connection in the output RCA jacks on the rear of the Adcom GFP-565 pre-amplifier. Moving the interconnect cables will eliminate it briefly, this is all three pairs of outputs. So, I took off the cover (remember, I am a professional that works with high voltage five days a week for decades, so don't you try this) hoping to perhaps squeeze the internal terminals where the center plug fits. As shown below, they are not readily accessible. 

Isn't that just a pretty and OCD satisfying circuit board?
So, my co-worker/fellow stereo lover suggested that I check to see if the outside terminals (the round connection that you CAN see on the back of components) is grounded to the chassis. I have not done this yet. I DID discover that the headphone jack (on the front) is not affected by the hum, so thanks to ebay, I bought a headphone to stereo RCA adapter and connected the power amplifier that way. No hum. 

Cool thing about the Dynaco ST 200 power amplifier is that it has two volume controls on the front, so one can do without the whole preamp thing. I hooked the OPPO universal player directly to the Dynaco and tried it. Pure music came out of the speakers. 

I had an epiphany, that perhaps I have TOO MUCH equipment in the listening room. You think so? Take a look at the aftermath of my taking both the stereo and six-channel surround sound kits apart:
14, count 'em, 14 speakers! And stacks of component and I don't know how many feet of wiring! So, I decided that since I only have a handful of surround sound SACDs and not much interest in buying more, that it was time to retire the surround sound kit and pass the parts on to new stewards. 

A note on my choice of the word, STEWARD. I think/feel that we own exactly one thing, ourselves. Everything else in our lives that we purchase, we are stewards of. We don't "OWN" the land our house sits on. No one does, it's simply a very, very tiny portion of the dry land of this planet we call Earth. Of course, based upon the ratio of wet to dry, Water might have been a better name. But aside from that Kevin Costner movie, Waterworld, most people choose to live on the dry portion of Earth.

As an example, some brands of cars, Porsches say, are highly sought after and collectible. I had the pleasure of buying and driving one for a few years and made a few subtle changes to it, then I passed it on to someone else who took over it's stewardship. Here it is:
Pretty, yes? I added sheepskin seat covers to protect the Porsche Cloth fabric on the seats. It was a fun car and I am glad to have had the opportunity to call a Porsche my own for a while. 

Enough about that philosophy. Back to the music equipment simplification. Since the SONY A/V receiver is too big and heavy to be safely shipped, I decided to replace the long serving Yamaha in the living room with it. Here are comparison photos:
 Like many of the newer A/V receivers, the SONY has a door at the bottom that reveals less-used controls. It makes for a neater, less busy front panel.
My wife commented on how many connections there are on the SONY. Some of the more expensive and newer ones have many more. They also include HDMI sockets. I think the manufacturers are supposed to make them backwards compatible, thus all the obsolete inputs for composite, component and S-video cables. Note also, that the SONY has all three-way/banana speaker jacks, and has low level (RCA) audio inputs and outputs as well as multi-room capability. That and it's 6.1 so it has speaker and RCA outputs for the extra two surround channels. WAY more than I'll even need. So now it sits on the bottom shelf in the living room and the Yamaha will be seeking a new steward.

Below are detail pictures of all the STUFF that was once connected:
 Above and below are the various RCA interconnect cables. Lighter blue are Liberty Cable brand and the rest except the black ones are Monster Cable brand.
Below are the aftermarket power cable and factory ones as well as a couple extension cables I made. Beneath them all is the surge protector. 
Below are the various speaker cables. The top pinkish ones were for the tiny rear surround speakers and they ran under the Asian rug. It's OK to do that with speaker wires, no current like AC power cables have.
Below is everything without the stacks of cables.

Above and below are the small speakers. You are seeing those AR speakers for the first time. I found them at Salvation Army and they are a currently produced model. Here is a link to the rave reviews they have been getting. Oh, got them for $15.00:
The tall one on the left, above, is the Polk Audio center channel speaker, that is an acoustic match of the silver-faced stereo speakers on the top right. The tiny silver one was the rear surrounds and their mates still serve us in the living room for the same duty. The ones on the left, below the silver ones are those Radio Shack Minimus 11 speakers that I modernized.
Above, is another pair you have not see yet, they are the Radio Shack Optimus LX-5II with bass reflex 5" woofers and Linaeum real ribbon tweeters.
Note above, that the mid/bass driver (woofer) is the same size as the midrange driver on the comparatively huge Cerwin-Vega speakers to the right of it. Below is a closer shot of the Linaeum tweeter. It has the same ribbon on the rear so that upper middle and high frequencies are radiated 360 degrees. 
It's funny how digital photos, since they make huge pictures on monitors, one can see all the tiny flaws or in this case, dust not easily seen by eye alone. 
Above is the stack of two Adcom ACE-515 AC conditioners, Realistic ten-band stereo equalizer, JVC three-head cassette deck, Adcom GFP-565 preamp and Dynaco ST 200 power amp.
Above, is the OPPO universal disc player, newly found at Salvation Army, a very pretty Denon universal disc player, TDK CD recorder, Yamaha universal disc player, Nakamichi CD changer and SONY SACD changer. Below is the Denon turntable, JDM (Japanese Domestic Market) Audio Technica headphones and extension cable, all atop the SONY AVR.
Now, since I no longer was going to have the Six-Channel Surround Sound kit, I decided to move the metal and glass shelf to the front of the room. I moved the teak shelf to the left wall along with the subwoofer (at this point, not connected) with the 200 CD rack atop it. They are not shown. Below are a series of images showing the components that I am keeping, arranged on the shelf and the progress of wiring them:
 Above is just the power cords/cables attached and secured with Velcro-type wrap. I used the "X" brace to run the AC cords inside the structure.
Now, above, the various stereo RCA interconnect cables have been installed and secured the same way. Note that I moved the power cable for the OPPO to the inside of the "X" brace.
Above is what I had when I finished. It has changed since this image was made. The speaker switch is no longer there and the turntable is aligned with the components below it. The silver Denon was being tested (see the stray cables on the right side?) and also is not there now. Plus the Radio Shack adapter now replaces the tiny wires you see plugged into the Adcom preamp's headphone socket.
The components are, left top to bottom: Denon turntable, OPPO player, Adcom preamp, Adcom AC conditioner, Dynaco power amp. Right top to bottom, less silver Denon: Nakamichi changer, TDK CD recorder and JVC cassette deck. In the middle on the bottom shelf is the headphones as seen from the top.

In a future post, I will reveal the SONY multi-channel preamp that I bought to replace the wounded Adcom.

Thanks for looking,

Scott


 


XBox 360 Forza 4 100% Completed Chapter Fourteen and Fifteen. 30 cars again!

Gentle reader,

During the week, I have so little time between getting home and getting to bed (I get up before 0400) so I use my time for things other than racing. If you are new to this blog, by racing, I mean virtual racing. In my case after years on first a PC, then on PS2 with Gran Turismo 4 and other racing simulations, to XBox 360 and Forza 4 plus others. 

I do NOT use a controller, that is not how one drives, except once James Bond did it from the back seat, but that was a film. I use a steering wheel and pedals on a custom-made-by-me assembly which holds them and is adjustable. The wheel/pedals is Microsoft's own and it is very nice and works well. I also have to Logitech ones made for PlayStations, but only my grandkids use those. Here is a link showing my setup:
The Robb Collections: Racing simulators XBox 360/Forza 4 and PlayStation 3 (PS3)/GT5

With that out of the way, a quick explanation of Forza 4. It has many stock cars and race cars from around the world. Real-world racing circuits and made-up ones. All physics are incorporated into the simulation. There are several viewpoints for the driver from above and behind, in-car, or at the base of the windshield or nothing but a rear-view mirror floating above. I prefer in-car as that is how one drives. If the car's rear-view mirror is inadequate, I choose the base of the windshield view, it is actually closer to real-world-view and shows a more lifelike angle of view, plus the rear-view mirror has a nice wide view as well. 

As you saw in the above link, my wife bought me a nice gaming chair with built-in speakers and it is very comfortable. I found the ideal table to hold the 32" flat screen TV which is quite close to me. It all feels very life-like. The wheel gives great feel for the surfaces and resists movement like a real car and transmits vibrations as well.

Now for the next 30 cars. We left off with my Panoz Esperante LM. Next is a real race car:
As raced in the former ALMS and in a different paint scheme, what is called "livery" in the racing world. I decided to change the look of many of my real racer so that I wouldn't be racing myself. In other words, see the exact same car as mine raced by an AI (artificial intelligence).
Ultima is one of the many small car makers that create unique and expensive cars for the rich enthusiastic driver to acquire.
I continue to marvel at the talent of my fellow Forza users and their ability to "paint" cars with such detail. 
One of my many Subarus. This one one of the newest available in Forza 4.

This racer I created from a stock Ford GT. There is a ready-made racing version as well in the sim. I chose the best of the many Gulf liveries for it.

One of my favorites and it really pisses off the AI competitors, they do their best to make it crash. Who knew computer intelligence could be snobs? Yes, of course I chose Herbie's look. Note that it is all-wheel-drive.

Again, one of my many Evolutions. One of the fun things about racing sims, is being able to experience so many cars in locations one may never see or be able to access. All safely from home with no expense.

The one-and-only Ford GT40 available is the Mark II which was the first to finally win Le Mans in 1966, finally breaking Ferrari's hold on world endurance racing. They rate it and similar vintage racers as "S" class. So one has to upgrade them to real racing levels. This is a correct livery, but not one that won any major races. One thing that bothers me in Forza is in the case of older cars, if you choose their front splitter or spoiler, they paint over the headlights!

Again, they offer a real racer Audi R8, but this is a stock one I modified.
See? Modern car, no painted over headlights!
Unbeknownst to most, this car, from Shelby Super Car (a USA company of NO relation to Carroll Shelby) tue Ultimate Aero is FASTER than the Bugatti Veyron.

Another Supercar made in the USA, the Saleen S7. 

Next is a version of the Lotus Elise turned evil by Hennessey:
They lengthen and strengthen it and put in a Corvette engine, if I recall correctly.
As I mentioned above, here is the real racing version of the Audi R8, thus the LMS name. Name came from the original R8 Le Mans racer in the top class. This is made for racing in sports car classes here and abroad.

Once the most expensive and fastest sports car made. The McLaren F1 sold for $1,000,000US and went well over 200 MPH. This is the racing version that was limited to 500 horsepower and thus much slower than the stock car. Same story for Vipers, Ford GTs racing Ferraris, etc. All for parity. Plus, they wouldn't allow mere GT cars to be as fast as the top prototypes!

Another of the boutique supercar makers, Pagini.

While Lamborghini makes awesome and fast cars, there is a stigma associated with owning one....


This Lotus is made strictly for racing. Fun, too!


A strange name, but one doesn't get to choose their name, do they? The Gumpert Apollo S. Another small supercar maker.

 Below is a real ALMS racer, thanks to those talented Forza 4 painters, I updated the livery to one used last year in the Tudor United series. This livery pays homage to the Team Oreca winner of Le Mans many years ago.

Forza 4 offers two NASCAR racers, a Ford and a Chevy. I chose the former and again, thanks to the painters chose a vintage Richard Petty paint scheme.

Next, the final ten. We are closing in on the end of the list and the fastest cars. Note the Risi Competizione name, but not their red livery. Like I said, I don't like to see myself on track.

Another real race car. The ACR Vipers (there were once ACR Neons too) is technically street legal, but one would be nuts to drive it on the streets.

When Audi entered WRC competition and introduced all-wheel-drive to it, they won everything and changed the face of rallying forever. This is the Group 4 car which were so fast and dangerous that FIA outlawed them.

What is now called "V8 Supercars" was once Australian V8 Supercar racing. But they let other makers join and even came to the USA to race at the Austin, Texas facility on an F1 weekend. There are many teams to choose from. This is what NASCAR should be, built from real cars with real doors and street-based engines. Sadly, Ford of Australia and Holden, GM's OZ company are both ceasing making cars there. Citing high costs. 

This is one of the real circuit (verses rally) facing Subarus.

While this WAS the ALMS Flying Lizard car, now it is painted just like the current factory Porsche GT racers, # 911 and 912.

Again, this was the Roberston Racing car, but now it sports European livery as raced at the 24 Hours of the Nurburgring.

Another bespoke Supercar maker, Joss is Japanese, I think.

It has been said that this was to be Porsche's racer-to-be for their return to top level Le Mans racing, but they made it their halo car instead.

Circa 1998 Nissan Le Mans racer. Again, I changed the look.

That's it for this time. The next chapters will close this saga. With the hard drive from the XBox 360 I found for $20 at the thrift store in my XBox, I am now almost level 50. It's fun to start all over again from scratch.

Thanks for looking!

Scott

Multi-Channel Audio Digital Converters in Use. 2000 SONY STR-DA5ES is Back! Part One.

November 3, 2026  #555 Gentle reader, First of all, thank you SO much for your continued reading of my blog! When I began this blog in 2008,...